Cardinal Wiseman

189

MARCH 25, 1865.]

HARPER'S WEEKLY.

THE LATE CARDINAL WISEMAN.

The new Cardinal forwarded the Papal brief to England, accompanying it with the famous pastoral from himself, dated from the Flaminian Gate, no prelate but the Pope, as Bishop of Rome, having a right to date letters or pastorals from the Eternal City itself. In addition to the archbishopric of Westminster, twelve other sees were marked out. A perfect whirlwind of indignation burst forth from the Protestant population of England at this " Papal aggression," ending in the passing of the Ecclesiastical Titles Assumption Act. The Cardinal was enthroned on December 6, 1850, in St. George's Church, Southwark. He then lost no time in endeavoring to throw oil on the troubled waters, by the publication of " An Appeal to the Reason and Good Feeling of the English People on the Subject of the Catholic Hierarchy." He continued in the peaceable exercise of his ecclesiastical functions, and often wrote or lectured upon matters of taste and science. His lectures on art especially, and his work, the " Recollections of the Four Last Popes," attained considerable popularity. The Cardinal was a poet and also a dramatic writer. His Eminence was not only a thorough master of English, but also an admirable linguist with regard to Italian, French, Spanish, and most other Continental and many Oriental languages. He died, after a lingering and painful illness, on the 15th February, at his town house in Portman Square.

PARIS FASHIONS FOR MARCH.   

EVERY thing in Paris is subject to the caprices of fashion, even to the colors selected for the attire of the different seasons; and if the chivalric sentiments of the present day required each faithful knight to wear the colors of his lady, the changes would be frequent, if not irksome. Just now the black and white predominate, for all gala and public dress, to such an extent that almost every lady's colors are those usually worn by every gentleman; and there might be some difficulty in recognizing these, but that the old custom of wearing "her color" has been relinquished.

The order of the day is simplicity united with good taste, a union productive of the best results even in these days of dressy ostentation,

when, in spite of the gaudiness inherent in many of the articles worn, a certain degree of elegance is obtainable in their disposition and arrangement. Even with such a costume as that depicted in the third figure in our engraving of the Paris Fashions for March, a stamp of elegance may be acquired by the manner of the wearer, although we only reproduce it in the illustration as coining within the ordinary scope of our observation.

For indoor wear, the Zouave vest, in cashmere or in velvet, with the trimmings special thereto, are still in considerable favor in Paris. Skirts are made on purpose to be worn with these vests, as well as with the braided canezous, in foulard or in cashmere.

We may here note that satins are quite a la mode again, even for ball costume, the turquoise blue, pale rose, and pearl gray colors being preferred. The gray especially, either in crape or satin, has been particularly remarked at the recent bals de la Cour.

The taste for fur trimmings in rolls or. narrow bands on pardessus has turned to account the merits of the sable tufts. They are particularly charming on black velvet vestmente, no matter of what form. Where the sable trimming might be found too extensive, strips of martin fur may be employed with advantage.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS.

Fig. I. Evening Dress..— Light gray moire antique robe, provided with a passementerie ornament fringed with light beads, so placed on the dims as to simulate a tunic. The bows down the front of the skirt, of the seine material as the dress, are edged with two rows of beads. The corsage is ornamented in a similar style. Gray velvet bonnet a fanchon; a velvet band passing across the middle attaches the lace of the fanchon.

Fig. 2. Ball Dress.—White silk robe, ornamented with rolls of satin surmounting a flounce composed of upright satin rolls between two rows of white satin fluting. Over the robe is a tunic forming a sort of train, and surrounded with a flounce of plaits and bouillonnes very similar to the ornamentation of the lower part of the dress. The corsage is round, and the bertha is trimmed to match the other portions of this ball toilet. Pearl necklace, and bead-dross of marguerites.

Fig. 3. Walking Dress.—Light brown silk robe, trimmed round the skirt with two wide bands of black velvet edged with small balls and surmounting a plaited flounce. The corsage habit, or coat-corsage, is also trimmed with velvet balls and passementerie round the edges of the back turned tails. Green crape bonnet, without bavolet, but ornamented behind with a profusion of magenta velvet ribbons.

PARIS FASHION'S FOR MARCH, 1865 .